I’ve been plugging away at some more grafting. My first sprint appears to have promising results so I’m optimistic this round will too.
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Anyone still need persimmon scionwood? I have maybe 10 varieties left (maybe a few hybrids mixed in there), but mostly 1-2 bud sticks (1-2" long) leftovers maybe someone can use.
Send me a PM if you have 10 rootstock you can graft onto (would rather have 1 shipment to 1 person who can use them vs 10 individual shipments).
EDIT these are gone. Gaveaway lotsa nice ones to @speedengineer
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Is there a consensus that grafting onto green persimmon wood is likely to be successful? At this point all the rootstock have several green inches on them.
What varieties do you have left?
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You could chip bud below new growth or try for green wood which may have more cambium contact but you have to be more gentle.
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I only saw this with Jiro which I am not sure has PVNA genetics. Once my fruits started getting pollinated the flavor dramatically improved. The others - Suruga etc were always pollinated as they were young trees so I dont have a comparison - pre and post pollination.
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Here is a seeded Fuyu with color change. The picture isn’t that great, our home had terrible lighting at the time, but it was a nice brown color. Not all of the fruits in the box I had exhibited color change, but they were all seeded. I believe the grower also sells Chocolate and Hachiya. I did think the darker ones tasted richer.
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Thanks. The cross-breeding experiments that are the basis for my conclusions did not include Jiro, so I really have no evidence one way or the other for that variety. One parent of Suruga is Okugosho, which appears to have one PVNA allele; the other parent is Hanagosho, which appears to have zero PVNA alleles. So FWIW, my inference is that there’s a 50-50 chance that Suruga has one PVNA allele.
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Yes, that definitely looks like a Prok. I think you are going to like them.
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I seem to recall Jerry Lehman mentioning that seeded fruit goes along with larger size and better overall quality. He is very well known for American persimmons but I don’t ever remember him talking about Asian persimmons.
John S
PDX OR
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Jiro fruit are often sold as Fuyu.
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I would actually recommend overwintering them in a cold (but not too cold), unheated building or attached garage. Second choice would be to bury their pots and cover the whole with mulch\soil\etc. Persimmons don’t grow roots unless the soil is warm, so they don’t do so well with fall transplanting in the North, especially for wee little seedlings. There’s a good chance they’ll frost heave over the winter.
Also keep in mind that they are not nearly as hardy until they get some size on them. You have to treat them differently than most temperate zone plants. They’re effectively tropical trees that have figured out how to shut down enough to survive our winters. I think 90% of problems with planting persimmons north of zone 6 are related to not understanding that.
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i think if i set them on the ground in a protected area, mulch them well, and allow the snow to bury them, they should come through it ok. that’s how I’ve got less hardy blackberries to survive and fruit up here, everything I’ve tried to overwinter in the garage has died in the past.
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One of my Dunaj (kaki on lotus) froze completely during the winter of 2012 and the other was lucky to sprout from a bud just above the ground level graft. We had a heavy snowload that year, lowest temp at -27°C and a few weeks with several nights’ temps around -22°C. It was their second year in the ground. I thought I had protected them well enough, but the ground was frozen too deep. The survivor was protected by a plastic barrel above ground stuffed with cardboard. Even so, it was a near miss.
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I checked today, so far so good on alot of them.
PS “Chupa” is really Chuchupaka hybrid.
PS Last Dollywood one is on old wood looks like.
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That has worked for me to at least 20 below for sure. You would probably be fine much colder.
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This is a Journey hybrid persimmon graft I had made, that took this spring. I’m still learning how to graft them in this climate. It’s royally hard, since even if the days are in the 70s or '80s the temperatures usually want to plunge to the upper 30s or 40s at night about till this time of year. For outside grafting, I think I’m really going to have to wait till second week of June. Even then I don’t think I’ll try it till my seedlings are a good size and can push a lot of sap.
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I tried that one winter minus the “protected” and snow, and only a few of the interior pots survived. I might have just barely worked them into the ground.
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