I have attempted cherry and avocado, both ended in a bad ending. They both leafed, flowered, and died. Those 2 are the hardest to root from cutting.
Fig, guava, and pomegranate are easy. You can cover them with plastic or clear bucket for humidity. If done in the cool season, you just stick them in the ground or soil.
Grape, nectarine, apple, mandarin, Asian pear, and grapefruit are middle difficulty. Growth hormone was likely used for most. The grape I grow from seed, I got 100 success. The grape from Lowe’s, 35 percent success. mandarin and grapefruit take a long time and are slow to grow. I did one Asian pear and it grow well, though the one of the root griddle the trunk. So, sometime the roots don’t grow the way you wanted. I got 3 nectarines from cuttings. They can flowered and fruit in the 2nd or 3rd year. The apple, I did something different. It was badly damage by a weed wacker. I cut the 5ft young apple tree. Put it in a 4ft pvc pipe with the top expose. Stick both the PVC and apple tree into the ground during Fall. It grew flowers and leaves in Spring.
I stuck a thick hard wood cutting of Toka in the ground next to a rose. I used no rooting products. It is beginning to leaf out, but I will not know if it has rooted until it warms up more. While much of the East coast has dealt with drought, my N Ohio location can’t seem to get 3 days without rain so that I am not planting in clay muck.
Applenut used to be a participant on this forum and was a volunteer at helping small farmers in a tropical part of Africa grow apple trees to sell their apples as a cash crop. His root stock of choice was Northern Spy which can be propagated from cuttings. Spy is one of several varieties that develope root primordia on trunks and other larger wood. I suspect those varieties that share this trait, which include some strains of Red Delicious, Esopus Spitz, Fameuse, and all the Gala clones I’ve grown, have some ability to root out from cuttings- perhaps some more easily than others.
Raspberries,blackberries use root cuttings, most self root the vine so no need to use root cutting unless you sale them.
Figs,blueberries, plum, pomegranate use sukers or root 4-6 stems in sand.
I have four Pomegranate cutting that need to be potted up now.
I did not use root tone on them, but you can use it, read the warning, can not eat fruit for 12 months after using root tone, but most plant do not bear with in 12 month of rooting.
this thread talks about blueberries, i only have one small blueberry right now but might ask around for cuttings during the early season next year to try this.
also, a thread about dip n grow.
I’ve used this powder, clonex liquid, and currently have a little bit of keiki paste I’m not certain how to use yet.
Mulberry roots very easily from hardwood cuttings, probably one of the easiest fruit trees to propagate that way. Just thick pencil-sized dormant wood, stick it in the ground or a pot in late winter, keep it moist. Most will take without any rooting hormone at all.
SOME mulberries root very easy. SOME mulberries are almost impossible to root. It varies depending on variety and and type of mulberry. Several of the morus alba will root very easy, the hybrids (alba X rubra) will vary. The pure Rubra are extremely difficult.
So, in general, to say “mulberries “ root easy is NOT completely true.
In the next week or two I plan to take softwood cuttings from an Annabelle hydrangea and Limelight hydrangea. I’ll have a propagation timer and a couple mist nozzles for the rooting process. Then later this season, I’ll take some hardwood cuttings from a red twig dogwood. All of these will be my 1st go at rooting cuttings.
I’m currently looking into all the research I can find on rooting cuttings and the results so far are rather unsurprisingly that it varies a lot between different species and cultivars, that younger plants tend to be better at it than older ones, and that rooting hormones can help when trying to root something that’s not very good at producing roots without them.
all that and also gleaned from the stuff i added to this thread-
cutting from closer to the roots will root better or faster
warmth on the soil is necessary for most things
parafilm or misting to keep tops from drying out
I’m thinking i might try to put together a table or graph of best time to take cuttings from different plants and best ways to propagate each (misting, air prune bed, container, upright/laid flat, etc)
