I hope that its not. The cankers I cut out were young anthracose cankers because of the fiddle-string marks, and not gumming. I did cut out beyond into the green clean wood. I did this while the weather was hot and dry, and it remained so for the past two weeks, and cleaned the blade between all cuts.
Ive also been watering the trees each day ( at the base, no spraying foliage, etc). Does that promote sap flow?
Some photo samples below. They appear wetter than usual because it has just lightly rained.
looks like gummiosis. What to do about it. Or if you need/can do anything about it I’m not 100% sure on. So I’ll let some one else give advise about that.
Watering every day seems excessive. So i would advise to water a little less often. Fruit tree’s usually prefer a bucket a week over a light spray a day.
What would happen if you have a tree on rootstock A, and then planted rootstock B nearby, grafting rootstock B to the tree growing from rootstock A. Would the tree receive attributes of both root stock?
what your describing is called an inarch graft.
Can be used to repair rodent damage to the lower part of the trunk.
I have not tried it myself with different rootstocks, but when i wondered the same and talked about it with people with more experience, the general consensus was that the tree would usually favor the stronger roots, and those would yield the main attributes to the tree. The tree might over time reject or let the more dwarfing roots die out. Or keep them around. But they usually would not grow so much as to change the attributes of the total tree.
Edit:
ill have to come back to my previous statement.
I just realized burrying the first graft union on and MM111/B9 interstem for example. Reaches the same effect. And there the B9 rooting is supposed to lessen the suckering of MM111. So i guess the 2e variety of roots can attribute certain traits to the overal tree.
i wonder if you could also use an inarch graft of B9 to lessen a suckering MM111 tree. Or if the B9 would need to be part of the main stem for that effect. I would not expect the full interstem dwarfing effect of a B9 inarch to MM111 tree.
What a depressing page to read although I found this little nugget of humor … “Somewhere along the line the truck has gone off the road, resulting in strange shapes, hollow or hard cores and variable leaves.”
Does anyone else grow both North Star and Montmorency Cherries? If so, can you tell any difference? I have some of both and I’m trying to figure out whether my north star is just a mislabeled Monty or if they are just very similar. My northstar is smaller, but its also a few years younger so that doesn’t prove anything. They seem to ripen at the same time, the fruit and leaves look the same, the cherries taste the same, etc. I know @clarkinks has a northstar, but can’t remember if you have Monty too? If not, how does the size of your Northstar compare to your Romance Bushes? My NS is probably twice as big, which makes me think it may actually be a Monty since NS is supposed to be somewhat of a dwarf too. ANyone got any insight?
Are there any peach rootstocks that will produce a decent peach? I had a big box store peach tree about 3 years ago that died from graft up but left a live uknown rootstock. For no good reason at all except maybe laziness I just let that rootstock grow into a tree, and this year it is covered with what look to be good peaches (of course they are only marble sized so who knows what future holds). I wonder if whatever rootstock it is will make a edible peach? We’ll know in a few months
Lovell was a common Canning and drying peach before it became widely used as root stock. Siberian C peaches are known for having the best juice. I have no idea with the C is supposed to mean but they are typically grown from seed there will be variability in what you get. I have 5 Siberian C from seeds growing in pots.
Noob question. I was toying around with my young apple trees today and did this to my Kidd’s. Is this something to worry about? If it’s too much of a tear on the young tree I could just cut right below the tear and let it make a new central leader.
Usualy such a small wound closes up quite fast. And most of a branches strength comes from the outer part of the branch. So in a few years when it thickens up. it might just be 0.5% weaker than if it did not have this wound. So it does not matter.
I personally would maybe cut the edges a little with my grafting knife. and than wrap it in parafilm/grafting tape multiple times. In hopes of speeding up callousing to completely close the wound off.
But in not actually sure that it helps at all. I might just be doing all that extra work for nothing but the feeling of “having done something”
One of my Asian pear has blossom end looks like this, see the picture below. It looks like the blossom end didn’t heal properly.
Will this cause potential rot problem as the pears grow larger/ mature ?
When a tree heals a wound, such as a limb removed close to the trunk, or a large piece of missing bark and cambium, does the callous that forms over the wound include regrown connected cambium / function as the cambium once did?
For example, if a tree is partly girdled with a wide wound, and the callous fills in part or all of that wound, will that healed area still remain girdled?
What can happen though. Is fungus getting into the wood (under the cambium). You often see this as stained wood in older diseased tree’s that are cut down. I think the stain is from some kind of (chemical) warfare between the tree and fungus.
Members of the prunus family will often keep ozzing gum (Gummiosis) from such sites.
It’s often better to prune the tree to a correct framework when young. Than to let it grow wild years and than have large slow to heal over pruning cuts in thick branches.
I grafted my first asian plum Angeleno last year which grew well and had a few flowers this year. It’s supposed to be selfsterile and the only asian plum around so I didn’t expect any fruit. There are now two plums on it and I’m trying to figure out what could have pollinated it. There are all kinds of european plums, almonds, peaches, myrobalans around. No pluots or other asian plums so far and only a single apricot with a few flowers. Do they cross this easily and could I tell from the leaves if I would grow the seed next year?
although I found this little nugget of humor … “Somewhere along the line the truck has gone off the road, resulting in strange shapes, hollow or hard cores and variable leaves.”
