What is the ploidy of arctic frost satsuma? Can it be crossed without embryo rescue with Trifoliate orange?
Anyone know who to contact in the pnw to check on potential new species and such?
Rooting cuttings…I have some firethorn and some cotoneaster cuttings. They’re all root hormoned up and in cups of damp growing medium. If they’re going to take…any time estimate from someone who’s done it before?
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While watering my mulberries (planted on 9/16) I noticed that despite the fact they appeared to be going dormant when they were planted, one of them is showing signs of new growth yesterday 11/4. anything to be concerned about this late in the season?
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Your shield could be causing a micro climate for them,as the sunlight hits.
It’s a plantra tree tube. They have worked well for me.
In keeping with this thread of random questions- Any downside to pruning grapes in the fall (like now)?
Have a pot full of seedlings. Would it be OK to separate them into individual pots this fall or should I wait to just before spring?
If it’s not fully dormant yet it might cause it to push growth which can cause problems.
In the fall after it goes dormant is my best time to transplant, has the best survival rate for me.
I prune each fruiting cane off right after harvesting the fruit, unless I want to keep the cane for next year and have never had any problems with this.
With muscadines they recommend late winter /early spring pruning. The cuts make the vines more susceptible to damage from cold weather.
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Wouldn’t about the easiest way to clone any tree would be to dig up a feeder root and then graft on it? Or would that cause problems?
what is the opposing view?
By grafting “a feeder root” you mean root grafting or just regular grafting onto a wild rootstock, an unspecified rootstock?
What kind of problems?
I’m not entirely sure I understand the question correctly, so I apologize if my answer is off track.
The easiest way to clone a tree is through root suckers in species/cultivars on their own roots, like some varieties of European plum, sour cherry, quince, hazelnut, etc. - simply by digging up the sucker and transplanting it to the desired location, you create a clone. This is an example for fruit trees, but it also applies to other types of trees and shrubs, such as lilac, aspen, elderberry, etc. Additionally, in some species, it’s very easy to clone by cuttings, rooting them (grapevine, fig, currant, willow!) - of course, unless it’s a specific cultivar, this would be done primarily for propagation rather than strict cloning. This method of tree cloning is at least one step (probably more) easier than grafting.
For species that are not prone to root suckers and for species/cultivars that are grafted onto a specific rootstock, or for all species/cultivars where vegetative propagation by cuttings, suckers, layering, etc. is difficult or impossible, various grafting methods come into consideration, including root grafting (?)
I’ve omitted discussing tissue culture in this response.
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I guess what I was thinking of is called root grafting. I’m more of thinking of the ones that don’t sucker or don’t root easy.
The problem that is possible that I can think of is that roots are different than your above ground wood especially smaller roots, so might be hard to get good healing? Never tried doing it before, so not sure.
I see. You mean propagating the cultivar on its own roots using the root grafting method. While this can be done, it’s generally more practical to use a rootstock. Unless there is a specific reason to propagate a cultivar on its own roots (or emergency case). Rootstocks for grafting can be obtained in many ways and are relatively easily available.
No, that’s ok; it is a legitimate method of grafting but somewhat outdated. You would match sizes.
There is a topic(s) on this forum about the method.
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Anyone know what these are?
The store sign said “Sweet Kumquats” and…they are sweet and citrusy. Seems like there’s no vesicles inside? Weird citron cross or something?
Can we see a photo of the middle?
Small question: are cherries always late to turn in the fall? Planted a Bing, Lapins, and Rainer last fall and this spring, and they just started to show fall color at the beginning of this week, well after nearly all of my other trees have put their leaves on the ground. I’m in Montana so no shortage of freezes and a serious shortage of daylight this time of year!
Thanks
Has anyone tasted the fruit of a Krymst 86 rootstock? I’m very curious, as it is likely the most cold-hardy peachum out there. But, I’d would prefer not to run the experiment if someone else already has, especially since I doubt it tastes any good.
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