Will this ripen/color up off the tree? It fell off the tree on its own. Its some sort of massive sour orange or a grapefruit (from a volunteer tree from when this place was a citrus orchard 20+ years ago).
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I’d think it would since it looks like it’s already started changing color.
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Any educated guesses on this plum? It’s from a 4-in-1 Euro Plum tree from Raintree. It’s labeled Seneca and it doesn’t appear to have any attributes of Seneca. Small-ish 2" round fruits, harvest mid-August in zone 5b. Very tasty. My best guess is Flavor Queen Pluot? I tried looking through Euro Plums online and can’t find any that are green like this.
I would have guessed guava, but been a time since ive had either, not common in WI.
Other’s who received 4-in-1s from Raintree have gotten bavay’s gage. Here’s a picture for comparison:
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Huh, interesting. That does look exactly like it! The picture on Raintree’s site doesn’t match up but everything else does. I’m glad I asked. Thank you!
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Yeah, but how do you distinguish a Bavay Gage from other green gages such as a Cambridge Gage or Old Green Gage? (I also got a 4-in-1 Raintree plum tree with a gage in place of the claimed Stanley. But I could never figure out what kind of a gage it is… Mine does look similar to your picture but I understand so do other green gages. As @iowandrew, I am also curious what I am growing so am watching this thread intently!)
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Can you use stock tanks as pots for gardening and such without issues? (After poking holes for drainage). Like, will they rust and will it affect the plants put into it?
I use IBC totes cut in half and set up as wicking tubs to grow strawberries, onions carrots, cucumbers, peppers, and a couple japanese plums. You can also get HDPE stock tanks. Both these types avoid any rust issues.
The IBC tote halves kind of need an outside frame to not look like junk. I have found that at times in our sunny summers in the 90s, they perhaps get a bit warmer than some plants (cucumbers and beans) would prefer. But strawberries and carrots and onions have done well. I’d say your length and magnitude of summer highs will be the biggest factor, along with water strategy.
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Yeah i was looking at the stock tanks from farm stores. Kind of expensive but i would like to utilize an area where there may be a septic field nearby because it has full sun. Septic field food growing option = potted plants only. Online says avoid 10-20 ft but I’d rather be safe and do 50 ft radius but with that, I’d have to do giant pots for my insane amount of trees
Are there any “blood”/“Indian”/“vineyard”/whatever nectarine varieties available in the US?
I think the closest one may be candy sprinkles and Artic glo.
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Looks like people were saying Raspberry Red was the closest a few years ago. A google search doesn’t show any available of the Nectavigne in the US. Outside of that Nectavigne, the only thing I could find were Indian Blood and vineyard peaches, no nectarines.
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I know. the French have a lot of red fleshed fruits unavailable in the US. Some are great, some are not.
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Are deciduous fruit trees that hold their leaves late a sign of them being more vulnerable to cold-injury or weather related damage etc.?
Its November here and we had a light flurry for the first time, All my peach & nectarines are nude, same for pears, plums and same for most apples save for a few brown/yellow senescent leaves and greenish leaves at the apical tips.
But my Almond still has all the leaves at the top node and they are very uniformly green and have no disease/cold injury evident and it would appear senescence has not started yet. I would think this could be dangerous with sap flow during low 20s like weve gotten occassionally the past two or so weeks.
Is this true? I’ve been worried about it making it through the winter here since grafting it in the spring. It doesnt seem to be taking the same clues as the other trees in my yard. It is advertised z5 hardy
Anyone happen to know roughly what order these pear cultivars would be in as far as vigor goes?
Assuming they’re on the same rootstock, same soil, sun exposure, etc.
Paragon (Cummins is selling sticks, …it’s supposed to be good?)
Blake’s Pride
Gem
Harrow Sweet
Summer Crisp
Are the beans in these pods viable seeds already or do I need to wair till they start to dry. They are jicama beans, and you eat the root of jicama, so once I harvest I wont be able to get seeds for next year.
For beans, i find it best if you leave them alone until they start falling out by themselves
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Burntridge uses several terms for buying blueberries alone: 2-3 year old, Large liner, large pot, gallon, quart pot, small plug,
And other sites still have other terms like 5-16 inch starter plant.
Can someone provide some advice about relative plant sizes/ages, especially with respect to blueberries and brambles? Would buying a quart pot save me a year vs a small plug? Would buying a gallon save me a year over 5-16 inch starter plant? Even if it costs a little more, I’d rather pay it if it actually would save me significant time to fruiting or reduces the chance of failure. Do larger plants transplant easier or are actually smaller ones more likely to survive? Thank you!
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A gallon or bigger would save you 2-3 years for most nurseries.
I was at Burnt Ridge earlier this year and their large potted/1 gallon/21$ looks like this.
And they produced these 
Their blueberries, even though smaller, are more mature than some other nurseries offering the same 1 gallon sizes. StarkBros 1 gallon sizes are I wanna say… 1 year old plants vs Burnt Ridge being 2-3 year old plants. Gurney’s jumbo bloobs = 3-4 year old and 3-5 gallon/ forget which. Gurney’s premium plants are equivalent to 1 gallon/1 year old plants. They’re equivalent to most nurseries 30$ 3-5 gallons as well. Depending on who you get the starter from, if it’s from tissue culture and very green, they’ll grow super fast. If they’re not taken care of in the beginning and hardened starters like sow exotic’s 4 inch medium cococoir sweetcrisp that i got… they’ll grow much slower and the green tissue culture will exceed the old starter within months.
I’ve transported both and would say smaller ones are easier but larger ones do better overall. For cane berries, the bare root or previously bare root but now potted ones do much better than tiny starts.
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