Questions not deserving of a whole thread


Grafted fruit trees are grafted, dug up and sold as bare root. Those trees are bud grafted, it may be the way to go. I would bud, let it grow a year, move it. Once the bud takes, and grows a bit, you would remove the central leader and the bud would be the new central leader… You could move it at that point.


I hadn’t thought of Spinosad. I still have some so I Might give that a try if I can do it safely without hurting the bees.

I will probably try DE too, I have lots of that! I didn’t know that was effective against stink bugs. I haven’t had a lot of success with it in the garden in general. Thank you both for the tips!
Do you know if stink bugs can be deterred by throwing a row cover over the bushes if it is not sealed along the edges where it meets the ground? I don’t think it would slow them down, but I never see them crawling up canes, they seem to go from tip to tip wherever the clusters are.


No, I don’t know? It is worth a try for sure.


One week after apple bench grafting I have some buds pushing out (especially one of the grafts). Right now my grafts are in my basement in a bucket covered with a black plastic bag. Should I put them in my unheated garage or plant them outside (or other option)? Should I keep them covered? My apple trees outdoors have not come out of dormancy yet (but they are close to waking up). Later this week the temperatures should warm considerably. Thanks!


If you have a chance of temps below freezing I wouldn’t plant them out until the chance is gone for the winter. Once you move them outside let them harden off a bit in the bucket before planting. Gradual increase in sunlight.


I have two peach seedlings both 1 yr old. I just moved them before they broke dormancy. Didn’t let them go bare root. Moved a lot of soil with them. I’m going to graft to them once the weather warms. While I haven’t moved trees and grafted in the same year before, I don’t think it would set them back too much if you do it while dormant with a lot of soil and then graft. I can tell you for sure next yr.
if your seedling is in a spot where it would not put on much growth if not moved, then I think it’s better to move and graft.


A question about raspberries: do purple and black rasps generally not sucker? What about reds, yellows, and golds? I ask because I’m laying out my raspberry run, and was inquiring about spacing. My tentative plan was just to give all the plants 3ft spacing.

I had two rasps that sprouted when planted them last year, Anne and Eden, a summer red. The Eden already has a couple suckers, about 6in away, and the Anne has one, about 5in away.



The purple and black R. I have grown don’t sucker
Rather send up shoots from the original crown

Reds, yellows, do sucker, sending up shoots from the root, often several feet away from the original plant


Thanks, so is 3ft a good distance between all of them?

Also, I know purples and blacks tip root, but do reds, yellows and golds do that?


Should add :this has been my observations
There are a lot of varietys / genetics , and some may be different


you may need to reapply if you get rain. don’t know if it kills them but they leave and don’t come back.


My Purple Royalty definitely suckers but very little compared to other raspberries.


yes they will but you will get plenty of suckers that come up every spring you can dig and transplant elsewhere if you want.


Black don’t sucker, but if the cane ever touches the ground it will root very quickly and start a new plant.


My black raspberries canes seem to stay in a pretty controlled area. The raspberries I had at another house would run all over the place. I would find runners 20 feet away from the original plants. I have not had that issue with my black raspberries.


I have a question about american persimmons. Do the named varieties have seeds?

I’ve seen some persimmons described as seedless, but it’s not clear if they were talking about the american species or not. I’ve also seen “Meader” described as seedless, but only when fertilized by certain other varieties or something. It’s all very confusing. I live in an area with some wild persimmons nearby, so I’m sure anything I grow will get fertilized.

Hopefully they at least have fewer seeds than the wild ones. Around here they have like 10 seeds each and barely any pulp.


Thanks Moose71, that should be easy enough to try this year. I have a few options now anyway, rather than watch them ruin the berries!


The American varietys here have occasional seeds.
Some / fruit no seeds ,then you will find a seed in one.
Lots of pulp though,
I have lots of wild male and female persimmons around.
So it not a lack of males


I was out during my daily orchard walkabout. 2 or 3 of my apples are showing some green sprouts, while the rest are still dormant. On some of the two year old trees, there still aren’t many scaffolds. So, I think I’d like to do some notching above buds to induce some new branches. Is now the best time to do the notching, right before they start leafing out in earnest?

Is this better done with a forecast of dry weather for a few days, so as to minimize the risk of fireblight?


My cherry tree only has two scaffolds. So I notched it few weeks ago hoping for a branch. So far no bud swell.
This thread might be a good read for you: