Questions not deserving of a whole thread

As somebody new to grafting, I feel dumb for asking this…I just can’t find a single tutorial/video that addresses this question. I can see why somebody would want to do a cleft graft. I can understand how to do a cleft graft. However, what do you do with the grafts in the long-term when 2-4 scions are grafted to a larger trunk?

The tutorials I’ve read show a picture of 2-4 sticks grafted to a trunk and it’s like, that’s it, there you go! Maybe I’m too dense to figure out what to do next? Or is there just a gaping hole in the tutorials I’ve been reading/watching on cleft grafting.

Do you keep all 4 grafts? Do you select 1 or 2 to keep and cut the rest once they take? Do the 4 grafts merge together into a solid trunk? What does this graft look like in the long-term?
Thanks!

@danCO For a stock that’s twice the width as the scion you pick the best one and prune the other one back to one or two buds . The next year in the spring you prune it back again or off. The one that got pruned back will help to heal in the stock. Once the stock is healed in you can prune it off. If you have a big stock like the trunk you can keep more. Extras are to help callus over the wound.

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Wow, this makes good sense. Thanks for the explanation…seems pretty straight forward!

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I think it’s French, so I’ll go with that. Thanks.

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I’ve got two peach trees that were really late in leafing out last year, they leafed out sometime in July. Most of my trees leaf out late February. As a result these two trees grew very slowly. Those two trees are at it again, everything has leafed or flowered and they’re completely dormant still, but still alive. They are both next to two other trees that are very vigorous in their growth. Time to remove?

What variety of peach?

Is this normal? A few of the branches of my nectaplum have this on the under part of branches at the base. This is second year in the ground. Sunburn maybe?

Double Delight nectarine and Red Baron peach.

Does anybody know if I can store CAL-MAG solution already diluted and ready to use? I made some changes in the soil mix this year and looks like all my plants having calcium and magnesium deficiency. But I have for now just few plants and they have to be on different watering schedule, It would be nice if I can keep a gallon of solution and use as needed, it is problematic to divide 5 ml by 8 when I just need a half quart of water.

That sounds strange brownmola. My new Double Delight nectarine leafed out with all my other newly planted stone fruit. Even put out a flower:

Anybody grow Avocados? I have room for one more, but can’t decide between a Reed and a Mexicola Grande. Would like to have both. Do 2 in a hole work for avocados or would it be better to pick one and graft the other on in the future?

For anyone who grows figs in ground, unprotected–when does bud break occur in comparison with the standard markers like cherry, peach, apple? I’m operating on the assumption that they’re after apple but before grape?

I want to know too! I asked this on a different thread but never got an answer…

So somebody c’mon…we know you know the answer!

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I was looking at weather data and trying to figure out if GDDs each year matched with bud break (for grapes) and it really doesn’t work–so I figure in relation to other crops would be good enough.

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Well I’m way out of your zone so it won’t really mean anything but here the figs are after peach and before apple. My peaches and plums are done, early pears done but others still blooming. My only apple that will bloom is just pushing bud. My figs have tiny brebas and small leaves.

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The key word is “unprotected”. I would like to know a person who grows figs in ground unprotected in zone 6a (or lower)

  • that fig tree is able to produced ripe fig before the season ends
  • that fig tree does not die to the ground

Of all the talks about growing figs in zone 6a or zone 5, I have not seen or heard a reliable account of an unprotected fig that produces.

I also consider planting it next to a foundation, a shed, etc, protected.

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That’s kinda why I decided to answer with the big zone difference. I’m not sure about an unprotected fig in 6. I’m in 8a and I still get freeze damage some years on trees planted close to buildings on the sheltered side. Young totally unsheltered/unprotected figs die back to the ground here. That saying I don’t have any Chicago Hardy types planted in ground. Ask me next year. I do have one in a pot and it leafs out later than a VdB and a brown turkey kept in same location.

My figs are protected–I am comparing apples to oranges but “after peach before apple” still gives me some rough idea. GDDs may not be a good predictor but some combination of soil temps and other crop bellwethers should help.

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San Diego can be a little weird when it comes to trees that need some decent chill. My figs definitely broke bud before the three apple trees, plum, and nectarine. Of course, the figs were barely dormant but for a couple of weeks. The plum and nectarine had their buds break about a week ago. My apple trees are still thinking about it, even the low chill Gala.

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Mine outside usually had to regrow from the base. It was later in spring for that to start.

I’ve gone potted since the ambrosia beetles hit them, but once these get too big I’ll grow them outside again.