Questions not deserving of a whole thread


Tap the post number section (ex: 1940/1940) and you can scroll quickly with that.

For the scion i just keep mine in a freezer bag without any extra water, maybe one small mist from a spray bottle. If you see any condensation in the bag it already means you have very high humidity in there.


I’m drawing a blank, what is the 3rd apple variety from Bloomfield, NY : Northern Spy, Early Joe, and ???






Thanks Noah!


You’ll also see it referred to as “Norton’s Melon”, incidentally. Looks like I’m going to get my first decent crop of it this season from a five-year-old graft.


Will American plum pollinate Euro plum? I have a Green Gage that will be setting many flowers for the first time, but it’s buddy the Mount Royal plum does not look like it will be flowering yet. There are wild plums all around the surrounding area that would be easy to go and snip a few branches when flowers open. Is it worth doing?


American plum will not pollinate Euro plums . Most Euro plums self pollinate . So you should be ok .


I am asking experts here to tell me if this is indeed a black knot or not. See the picture below

I sprays copper every spring and have not had black knot or similar looking things on my trees till this showed up last fall/late summer. I had another similar looking one on the branch at the same time. When I cut that open and I found out there was a worm inside that made the branch oozing out. That cut area is healed OK now, don’t see signs of further developed into black knot . Picture below

My question is weather what is on the first picture is also just caused by a worm inside, or indeed a black knot. Thanks


No not really. Euro plums Gage, Mirabelle, damsons and prunes are prunus domstica and generally have 6x chromosomes while American plums generally have 2x. Its hard but not impossible to cross them but one would not plant them for pollination.


I really hope I get some answers to this…

I’ve read many times that you shouldn’t let most spray chemicals sit after they are mixed, but I’ve never heard what time period that becomes an issue and things loose effectiveness or whatever happens.

At this moment, I’m in a dilemma. It’s bright and sunny all day and I just mixed up 25 gallon of spray. And of course Murphy shows up…I literally finished putting the lid back on my spray and I notice the sun has gone away. Minutes later, thunder. forecast was sunny all day so I look at radar and sure enough- one big thunderstorm is bearing down on my. Its not huge- probably won’t last an hour, but it will be 1.5 hours or so before it gets here.

This happens to me more than I can believe and may have happened to others so it would be nice to hear some thoughts on what to do in these cases (or when anything else happens after you mix your spray). Should I go ahead and apply the spray knowing its going to be pouring rain in about 1.5 hours? Or should I wait for the rain to come and go?

Here is what is in my 25 gallon mix:

Myclobutynil (Eagle)
Captan 50
Kocide 3000
Imidan 70 insecticide
Pinene 2 sticker

I know some of these things may seem repetitive but this is what I do on my first couple sprays and it works for me and I’m happy with it even if some think I’m duplicating - so that isn’t the focus of this question.

So, how long do you think I (we collectively) can let this mixture sit before it is a problem? AS you can see, there is a lot of money in that tank and I’d hate for it to go bad, but I also hate to apply and a thunderstom get here before it even dries. THanks


I cannot answer your question but I do have a question for you. What rate are you mixing the copper and what fruit trees do you want to treat and what diseases are you trying to treat or prevent with it? Have you used Koicide previously at this time of the year?


So what did you do???



I think how long a spray is “good for” strongly depends on pH / the mineral content of your water.

I believe @Drew51 posted a link to a chart about pH and half-life time of sprays, and some were minutes long at high pHs. Each chemical has a different ideal pH but the general trend seemed to be that slightly more acid water was better.


A few do like it basic or neutral. A good idea to check the charts. I thought this was a good one. Lot’s of info on pH and pesticides on the net.

More info at MSU

Lot’s of info on the subject.
From U. of Florida


Hello everyone. I Purchased some Montereys horticultural oil last summer Around June or July I believe. I stored it downstairs in my basement at roughly 50 to 60° over the winter. Not in the garage so it would not separate. If that’s even a problem. The issue I have is this spring today I opened it and it is creamy white which I believe is OK After some research on the Internet. But it smells like ammonia really bad. Is this normal for it? Or is it a bad batch. I called the company and I got a gentleman that said it was normal but I thought I would check in with you all before I go spraying my trees and kill them.


I have a Santa Rosa plum tree and only the bottom 2/3s has fully leafed out. This portion of the tree had abundant blooms as well.

The top third of the tree has only recently started to leaf out and it is still rather sparce. It has very few blossoms.

Is this common? Is there anything I can do to encourage the tree to fully leaf out next year?

I’m in 10a SoCal.


Ever find any larva in your buds. I found one today and several have been eaten from the inside this year.


Does anyone know how sensitive (what temperature) hardy grapes are to frost/freeze? I can’t find much good info on hardy types, mostly the French wine grapes and they aren’t too hardy.

I have small Lakemont and Reliance seedless grapes, and am worried if it gets to 28 degrees they will be killed.


@Levers101 grape and mulberry leaves seem to die with the first decent fall frost for me(wont kill the plant as it will send out new buds but woild be a setback. If your worried just throw an old blanket, bedsheet etc to take the edge off)