Do you have a favorite state lab for soil testing? I have used Massachusetts. But, I never seem to get all the information I want. I want more than Ph. I want to know if some element is missing or too high. Is there a state one that you love?
It looks like UMass Extension’s Routine Soil Analysis will give you what you’re looking for. It might not cover micronutrients, but it is going to give you pH and the major nutrient levels, which is all you need 90% of the time. If you really want other options, UMaine extension will be good if you’re in the eastern half of the state. In the western part of Mass, the soils are different enough from what UMaine typically deals with that your results might not be accurate.
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Thanks! I like the Maine idea. I once sent all my samples to Texas ag and the result and recommendations surprised us all. It showed zero nitrogen in many of my beds.
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It’s been a few years but UMass included all the famous micros with the exception of Molybdenum.
I wouldn’t be surprised if their fancy new machine even covers that.
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It is nitrates / nitrogen I am hoping for. Southern states test for it.
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I honestly wouldn’t worry about nitrogen levels. They can vary quite a lot depending on soil temperature, how rainy it’s been, etc. Focus instead on organic matter, as that is a continuous source of N as it breaks down and can provide half or more of what you need. The other major piece is pH. You could have tons of N in your soil, but very little will be available to plants if your pH is too low. This is why a lot of labs don’t include N by default. It adds to the cost of the test without giving a lot of useful information. Where it can be useful is if you take the sample at the same time every year and track N levels over time.
I would also avoid sending Northern samples to Southern labs. Different labs use different testing protocols based on the soil types in their region, so the results and advice may be questionable if your soil is too different from what they usually see. Also, this makes it hard to compare results from two different labs. It’s best to find a lab you like and stick with it.
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I don’t think a-soil test for nitrogen would be very useful .
Nitrogen levels can fluctuate widely depending on …
Temperature
Biological activity
Rainfall
Organic matter ( decomposition, )
Your soil type
Previous crops , etc.
My local soil test ( Wv.) don’t list nitrogen, and I would pay little attention to it if they did, as it fluctuates over time.
I try to visualize soil fertility as a engine with a throttle.
The engine being macro / micro elements + ph .
This needs to be tuned up like a good engine.which is relatively stable over time, with occasional adjustments.
Nitrogen being the throttle !
Depending on the crop, sometimes you want to give it more gas,
Maybe a quick boost, — spring ,quick acting nitrogen to get a tree growing, then slow latter.
other crops slow and steady. Like greens need a constant steady supply.
Organic sources ( manure, organic matter , compost , etc )usually are longer lasting , slow steady.
Chemical sources , nitrate , urea , are quicker , but then gone.
Each can have advantages. / disadvantages. ,depending on crop.
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I had my vegetable garden soil tested a few years ago. They don’t bother testing nitrogen because of the variability.
But my phosphorus was “very high”. The only direct fertilizer I’ve ever used over 13 years is alfalfa pellets when planting the seedlings (directly in the hole). Otherwise, I spread a yearly layer of leaves. Could that be the source?
Any thoughts on consequences of high phosphorus or if I should do anything about it?
I don’t think that there is anything you can do about it. I’m not even sure you can crop it out by consistently withholding P-based ferts.
That said, I’ve become a believer in soil tests and, aside from organic sources, where you accept what you get, adding only those nutes that are demonstrably low. The exception as you and others have pointed out, is N which added based on an eyeball evaluation.
As others have said, keeping up with PH is the starting point.
As a practical matter, most of us should never add a grain of phosphate-based fert to the soil.
It’s a bit more complicated, but on the plus side, I think it’s cheaper overall. Real-chemical-name amendments tend to be minor and cheaper.
I wouldn’t necessarily blame your alfalfa pellets. P is commonly part of any lawn and garden fertilizer and quite persistent. It could be from an addition someone made to the soil years before you bought your house.
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My Phosphate was ridiculously high too. I blame the annuals I used to plant, I think some growers throw in P to get some quick results. I also used triple phosphate to keep bunnies out of my bulb bed. Once you use it, it never leaves your soil.
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Michigan State University is discontinuing their soil testing program.
I speak with the person who has been the director and primary lab employee for (literally) decades. He is retiring this year and they are closing the program rather than find a replacement.
I think he has already retired as he has been sharing photos/videos of his recent travels.
Its a shame, he’s quite a great resource for the state and MSU has long been a good agricultural school.
Scott
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My state quit a few years ago. They used to offer an analysis based on leaves of the crop which was handy.
UMass took the position that the analysis was a way for their students (who perform the tests) to learn about different souls around the country.
A decent ph test can be performed at home with test strips a coffee filter and distilled water. That’s half of it. Get that straight and quite a bit of nutrients suddenly become available to the plants.
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I work at a high school and I help run the Garden Club. We show the students, and have them analyze soil and nutrient levels in an aquaponics grow tower. We only really do the big three, though.
Scott
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I don’t know how helpful this might be, but last week I sent a spoil sample in for testing before planting 7 grape vines this coming spring.
My vines were bought from Double A Vineyards in NY. The test kit is $30 - plus ~$10 for my shipping) and covers the following:
Test includes: Organic Matter, Estimated Nitrogen Release, Available Phosphorus, Exchangeable Potassium, Magnesium, Calcium and Hydrogen, Soil pH, Buffer Index, Cation Exchange, Capacity and Percent Base Saturation of Cation Elements as well as Sulfur, Sodium, Zinc, Manganese, Iron, Copper and Boron.
I looked at my state testing and it was priced all piecemeal and much more expensive.
Since I bought my vines from them, Double A Vineyards will have their viticulturalist review, comment, and recommend any amendments.
I wonder whether this is an option for many compared to local testing both cost wise and content…though I don’t know if something is missing in the testing for fruit trees that isn’t looked at for grape vines.
Also I don’t know if you need to have purchased from the vineyard to get the price and testing done at the Virginia lab that it was sent to…they may have a deal to benefit their customers.
I’m awaiting my soil results.
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I am back asking the same question! Now, Massachusetts Agg extension soil analysis is $20 per sample. I have 10 separate beds all treated differently, growing different fruits, vegetables, blueberries and 70+ roses. I looked into Penn State’s testing, $10 per sample. I can’t seem to figure out Cornell’s I used Texas last year and got some recommendations for commercial size orchards. I have beds that are 100-200 sq. Ft. I did like that they give nitrogen recommendations although, for some reason too scientific for my understanding, New England nitrogen readings are supposed to be inaccurate. I do need a good test that will make recommendations that don’t require a lot of math or adjusting measurements. Fractions are not my strong suit.
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I just got my soil results back. Waiting to speak with the viticulturalist on my amendments.
Yeah the soils testing is geared towards commercial growers, so expect to see lbs/acre as a unit. So for me as an example if the report states 1000 lbs/acre I do the simple math.
43,560 feet in an acre. My little grape trellis row is 46 feet long. I’m guessing I need to amend a 3 foot wide row. (1000 x 46 x 3) / 43560.
3.17 lbs of whatever constituent.
I was really surprised at my pH result. 6.5.
I’ve always been told that the whole area where I live is acidic soils. It’s why blueberries do well here. I guess there is still a good deal of variability here…or my topsoil is all from the build of my lot and not native.
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So except for iron, my soil (at least 6-8 inches down) is pretty nutrient poor.
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My soil is 50 ppm for P and 400 ppm for K. Much higher than that were too much was applied.
S is 30 to 600 depending on prior applications.
Zn is 4 to 10
Your soil is leached out from centuries of rain. Mine isn’t.
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I guess in the interest of economy I would pay for maybe a couple of tests and work from there.
I would be careful to apply all recommended ferts evenly to all the beds all the amendments evenly to all the beds. You are likely to keep them all in range, especially over time.
If you have a special bed for acid-living plants or whatever, make that a permanent arrangement.
Ph tests are helpful and can be done cheaply by you.
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I like the format. Who did your testing.
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