I’ve read the Indar label which takes about 2 minutes and they only state a spray (nectarines) 3-weeks before harvest and a one day window if a second spray is done prior to harvest.
What’s the exact best method to follow?
Spray 1 at petal drop
and then if I don’t monitor for the first signs of rot (let’s hypothetically say this will be the case) how often are your spray intervals? Obviously you have many different ripening times because of cultivar… but what is your method?
And, what about plums and apricots? How many sprays are allowed for Apricots (8 I presume?) but plums are not on the label.
My 10 year in the ground nectarine has never ripened a fruit for me (the biggest problem being squirrels sampling when the fruit are tiny and throwing them all on the ground).
For brown rot the label mentions beginning applications 2-3 weeks before harvest at 7-10 day intervals. This is basically the best window to prevent brown rot of the fruit (although applications before that help to control twig lesions).
For blossom blight, the sprays have to occur before bloom, at bloom, and at petal fall.
For scab (for some reason nects are not labeled for scab, but peaches are) applications begin at shuck split.
Apricots are on the label the same as nects.
Plums are on the label, basically the same as nects and apricots, only 4 sprays are allowed for plums.
A preharvest interval of up to the day of harvest means 0 PHI.
For peaches my interval is heavily dependent on the weather, and Indar is not the only fungicide in the toolbox. I frequently use Captan early in the season for scab control. Captan requires a much heavier rate, and is considerably more expensive at close to $20/acre. Anything used to control scab will require sprays at shuck split and thereafter from 10 to 14 day intervals, and sometimes more frequently if there is a lot of wash-off. Even for a small acreage, it can require a lot of chemicals. It takes almost a whole 30# bag for one spray of my small orchard.
The label actually recommends rotating Indar with a different class of fungicide, or mixing it with a different class for resistance management. Indar is what’s called a DMI (aka SI) fungicide, with a single mode of action. DMI’s are highly susc. to selection of resistant strains of fungi. In other words, fungi can develop field resistance to DMI’s in a fairly short amount of time.
Agriculture has been using DMI’s for about 45 years and some fungi have developed resistance along the way. The development of newer more powerful DMI’s have pushed the resistance curves back, so far. The active ingredient in Indar, even though 25 years since it’s introduction, is still considered a powerful DMI.
Immunox/myclobutanil is also a DMI, so there would be no advantage mixing or rotating it with Indar, from a resistance management standpoint. You’ll note that Blueberry above is tank mixing Rally (commercial equivalent of Immunox) with Manzate or Captan. This not only increases the activity of the fungicide spray, it also helps prevent resistance buildup because they have different modes of action than a class 3 DMI fungicide.
All that said, backyard growers really don’t have to worry about creating disease/insect resistance, imo. But if you notice your Immunox is not doing the job by itself, you might want to add a little Captan in the mix.
I sometimes tank mix Captan at the half rate with some Indar, if rains have been non-stop torrential.
That has been my experience too, but last year my nectaplum was fantastic. It took 6 years, produced first time the 4th year. It would have produced the third, but the polar vortex hit us hard that year. Anyway the first two crops were terrible, tasteless. I started to top work one scaffold. I was going to do the rest this year. Well last year they were better than any other stone fruit. And I’m an acid guy too, but must admit the nectarine was killer. It had top rate flavor. So now what? Wait and see what happens this year? I am going to top work another scaffold, but will save one for the nectaplum.
I think you may get good crops on occasions with the low acids, hard to say? All gardening is local. Anyway patience was a virtue for me in this case anyway.
Thanks for that precise explanation. I had not mixed fungicides from different classes before last year when it was suggested for Bitter Rot on apples. I hate to use Captan late in the season because of the white residue. I really like the fact that Indar does not leave any.
After seeing your inventory of Captan I see why you have a big trailer mount AB sprayer. Are you able to spray all your peaches in one tank?
At the moment I get by with 50 gal on an acre of peaches on my sprayer which produces 100 gal/acre for the apples. The canopy on the apple trees is pretty small and I’m going to see if I can get to 50 gal/acre on the apples by turning some nozzles off.
Yes. As you mention you can spray concentrate sprays with as little as 50 gal. water per acre. As you know, experts generally don’t recommend a higher concentrate rate than that for ground equipment. Mine’s a 400 gal. sprayer, so easily covers the orchard on one tank.
BTW, have you considered roll-over nozzle bodies for your sprayer. You can put different rate nozzles on the two different outlets of the nozzle body, so you can very quickly change the rate for different crops, by spinning the nozzle body 180 degrees (It spins around by hand, no tools required.)
Mine don’t look like this, but I think these work the same way. They only flow out of one side at a time depending on their position. If you put them in the 90 degree position, they shut off.
Is it hard to turn the big sprayer around at the end of the rows?
I considered changing to the double rollover nozzles, but I hated to spend the money. I’m hoping I can get by with just turning the bottom two nozzles and the top nozzle off and reducing the pressure slightly. My sprayer is only 50 gallons and I hate to refill it when I spray the apples - especially when I have to get the strep out on short notice ahead of the rain.
Even in my hot humid climate I have not had a big problem with brown rot on the Peaches, but Fireblight on the Apples is another story.
The sprayer is a little hard to turn around on one end, especially if I leave the PTO on. I don’t like putting the U-joint for the PTO shaft in a sharp angle, if the PTO is on. I remedy this situation by spraying alternate rows 1,3,5, etc, then I come back and spray the even rows. It gives me more turn around room.
So, The Indar has arrived. I figured up my cost. The gallon is 128 ounces and it cost me right at $2.75 @ ounce to get it here. I 'm thinking that price and cost to ship to you will be the price. If I remember correctly? And if someone knows please help me out here. Being chemical only UPS ground will ship it? I’m thinking I can get everyone’s amounts together, I have boxes I can cut down to size easily since i get something shipped here practically every other day and once I do send them all out at once? Sound good to all Purchasers? Maybe so i don’t have to dig back through the thread you guys can just ADD your name to this post…Use PM for privacy of address and i will get to work. I’ve already paid for it so when the money comes is not that important. And it doesn’t matter to me how you do it. I can just deposit a personal check, Money Order, etc. Or I can give you my Paypal account to pay to. Everyone cool with that system?
Also, My apologies but My Day job has been keeping me VERY busy so i will get to work on this over the weekend. If all people are ready and all goes well I can stop by UPS sometime early next week and send everything. That’s best case scenario. I’m sure everyone know all the life things that can happen. I certainly don’t expect anything to go wrong but ya just never know…Not sure if i ever mentioned it or not but I manage a team of super great salesmen in the Wine and Liquor Distribution business and it can be quite hellish here in Florida sometimes
Yeah no problem! Just let Jeff know what you need by PM and to ship to me. .If some still available? (Probably! )I owe you money for the gooseberry anyway. I probably will still owe you some.
Chills, Drew, that works fine for me. It has 128 ounces and I’m no where near that yet. I’m going to say I’m not even near half. Chills, just PM me and I’ll add it separate in the same delivery for DREW.
What size bottles are you shipping Jeff. I would also like to get some. If it would save on shipping and Drew does not mind you could send mine to him as well. @Drew51 ? Would also stop me from procrastinating and get back out to your house.
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