Best grafting sealant

Thank you for bringing this product to our attention. I have a friend that I think can use this product.

I just bought my first quart of Doc Farwell’s yellow. I’m a bit surprised, as I researched sealants, and didn’t see other negative reports, but this is good to know. It would help others if you can share which species didn’t work with it, in your experience.

Yes Any sealant that is specific to a few species as the label states is not a good buy in imop. Never mind anything else. I haven’t mentioned this but one other person suggested that it may be just glue dyed yellow. I agree, having investigated further. The nose knows. It smells and behaves just like Elmer’s white glue. I have both. It is 3 times the price and it has a catchy name. There are many other good broader spectrum sealants available for less. As b4, do a sample first. Read labels.

I wouldn’t touch this stuff again except using as an adhesive to get rid of it. It seems to work ok as a simple pruning sealant for the few listed fruit species. Good on you folks if it works for ya.

I think your nose might be off. Its pH is lower than Elmer’s glue (closer to wood glue), and don’t believe glues contain kaolin clay.

With all due respect, multiple people have asked what you grafted that had a 95% failure rate, as we’d like to understand where to not use it; however, you’ve avoided answering the question multiple times, so you are not building a lot of credibility.


As stated for the third time now the point is not to dictate species specifics one by one but be cautious, read labels, test first and not rely on my experience or anyone else’s for that matter. If it frustrates you or others I guess I understand but it is better to use good methods instead.

Weather it is glue or not the fact remains it smells and behaves the same and likely has those components in it at the very least. All should judge for themselves. As you probably also know PH can be changed easily if that even matters. You’ve bought some so you will find out one way or another. Hopefully it works for ya. Then YOU can share results the way YOU want and then broadcast that wonderful new glorious credibility.

I think I may buy a gallon of elmer’s glue for $20, put some coloring in it and market it as, “PAPA’S PLANT HEALER” FOR $128 A GALLON. Pretty D–mn good 600% return for a few hours lazy effort and no manufacturing or risk! Lot better than that Meth lab production right rssn.Those tend to blow up on ya right?

“we’d like to understand where to not use it” Now once again for those of us who demand specifics from others on this subject, instead; READ THE LABEL, TEST FIRST. The label says where it should be used. Test, or risk losing your crop which you will deserve a that point

Gotta go. Meth lab is a layin’ out in the yard. Elmer’s is on sale down the road.

I’m glad I didn’t read all this before trying my first grafts. It would have made me nervous. What I used probably wasn’t “best” but it was cheap and available.

I liked that folks who used the colored seal could see where the graft was. I was also nervous about water getting in my graft. I decided to mix some waterbased latex indoor home paint (dark pink, Ph ~7.5-8) with pva bookbinders glue (super flexy glue, ph 7). I had both of these in my garage. Mix was probably close to 50-50.

I dipped the end of scions in my mix. I painted it on unions (over parafilm and tape) and painted it over the tape (electrical) I used for cleft and bark grafts. I had wrapped some scions in parafilm but decided to experiment a bit. Some were wrapped in parafilm, some covered in this mix.

My grafts were all pears and apples - the “easy” grafts. 21/27 have growth so far. I’m hanging on for a couple more to make it! scions did not seem to have a preference mix/parafilm and I don’t know what would have happened with the cleft and bark grafts if I didn’t paint them.

For Doc Farwell’s to have the disclaimor on the label, to me, means that they’ve tested on the ones listed and perhaps know of an incompatibility with some species or process. They can’t test and vouch for everything, and don’t know how creatively the product might be mis-used and then blamed on them.

It’s similar to expiration date labels. Tylenol that’s 4 years old probably works perfectly fine. The fact that they have a 1 year expiration or something, and there is no such warning on the local herbal remedy doesn’t lead me to conclude that Tylenol has a terrible shelf life and should never be purchased.

I don’t know why Babbler won’t tell us what species supposedly have a problem. If true, knowing that may give some insight into what the problem is from which we could perhaps make some extrapolations.


Seems pretty obvious from his prior posts, marijuana plants naturally. :rofl:

1 Like

I cover the graft with banding rubbers and parafilm or elec tape, seal the scion tip with something but rarely put anything on the scion above the graft.

Uhhhhh - medical!
Free pass.

Tough crowd~


I have mainly been using parafilm this year to seal my grafts and I noticed an issue with the bases of my bark grafts … I had parafilm tightly wrapped there and I think it was inhibiting the callousing of the graft to the trunk on the inside. It is important to get callous there to keep the grafts on snugly when winds hit. So I decided to remove the parafilm at the base of bark grafts after a few weeks of good growth.

My Doc Farwells I have used on every possible type of graft over the years and has generally worked well, but I have an old jar which I think got too thick and it may have been putting too much resistance to the buds coming out. I decided to thin it for next year. It may also inhibit callousing at the bases of bark grafts so I might stop using it there. If the graft is well-supported it should not matter, but I have lost too many bark grafts in high winds in late spring.