Check with me in May and I’ll be happy to share
I grow all of this… or in some cases, some of this just grows wild here… and I spray none of it.
Note… I did not say I had perfect peaches or apples every time… in fact peaches I get very few perfect fruit… but I do get some… and some I can (as someone else mentioned above) cut out the bad and eat the good. I might… just might… try a all organic peach spray program next year… might. I would sure like to get more good peaches.
My early Mcintosh apple, I get lots of perfect apples… and some wormy ones… but I can almost always get half a apple out of the ones that I do find pest have invaded…
Now that SWD have made it here (last 2 years that I have noticed) I have to bag my blackberries (in July and Aug). I am going to start varieties that ripen in June to help with that issue.
Some of the stuff on my list has not started producing yet… notice I have all listed with a Bloom Date span and Ripen Date Span. In cases where I have not harvested ripened fruit yet, the dates are estimates based on what nursery said. That is often quite different for me… what most nursery’s say for ripe date… I am often a month to 2 weeks earlier than that.
On my everbearing raspberries I only included the (first or spring/early summer ripe date)… in the fall they all ripen early Sept, to late Nov.
On blueberries… someone said the birds get most… I was like that too… but this year I started off with bagging them, and that worked well (but is a pain)… and then I saw a post here on the flash tape, and I installed that over my bushes… .and that worked very well, I got many more than the birds did. I can live with that.
were yours hybrids or strait genetics Clark.? ive only grown hybrids and the ones i have have produced in 5 yrs. here. had husks without nuts the 4th year but there was only 1 and no other pollinator so maybe 4 if you would have 2 that produced the same time. ive read pure Europeans are longer to produce because theyre tree forms. these here are 8-10ft. bushes with many suckers.
slugs can do some damage, but it doesn’t affect production. your right. my old green stemmed one from my great grandparents’ homestead produces thru summer but my Canada red is just barely hanging on by august. for recipes there isn’t alot of difference, but fresh eating Canada Red is sweeter and more tender.
They are wild hazelnuts so they are open pollinated.
Someone may like these threads
Before I go further I need to make sure everyone knows I’m not currently growing figs. Strawberries. Blueberries or many other easy fruits. So why not you might ask? In an area like mine pears it seems are easy to grow other things not as much. If your in Florida or many other places the opposite is true pears are harder to grow but blueberries and other things are easy. Took those photos the last time @Peaches and I were there.
@JeremiahT I have not planted this one yet but it’s my understanding that it could take a very long time to fruit (I’ve heard of one starting to after 12 years). For most backyard growers a shipova is impractical to plant but may pan out with very long term goals in mind.
Could you elaborate on your hazelnuts in clay? I have beast & grand traverse hazels in clay. After being convinced that they don’t mind neglect from a few field trials I decided to plant these seedlings without amending the clay soil much. Rabbits cut them back and have led to essentially losing a year or so of growth. They are budding now and are protected from rabbits but are 6 inches at most entering year 2.
Add some composted cow manure around them and wood chips. It’s critical they stay damp and the clay be unlocked so they can begin to get nutrients. Once the roots reach water you will be better off. They can get to water much faster if the soil is moist.
@clarkinks they have wood chip mulch and have been giving them compost & leaf mulch. They get baked in the summer but I think I’ll give them more watering attention moving forward, at least till they get bigger
I plan to start a couple of pecans at my new location in the next year or two… building a new home first.
I have lots of hickory…
Chestnuts are pretty high on carbs… I dont need those… although they might grow well here.
I have considered hazelnuts… and diet wise they would work… much lower on carbs than chestnuts… but our University of Tennessee site has details on nut trees for TN… and they do not talk favorably for hazlenuts. They say they really need cooler summers and mild winters to do well… and that just does not fit my climate at all.
Do you all know if there might be some perhaps newer varieties that are known to do well in the south east.
Anyone in Southern TN or Eastern North Carolina or Northern AL or GA… successfully growing hazlenuts ???
If so… I would appreciate some variety recommendations for the SE area.
Ps… watched several hazlenut vids on YouTube just now… thay were growing them in California … Oregon …mid-west… Iowa … New York… found no one in TN or SouthEast growing hazlenuts.
Add later… found a guy on YouTube picking wild hazlenuts… in TN somewhere… and one other guy showing some american hazlenuts he had growing on his place… and he harvested a few. He had (think he said euro hazlenut) that was quite large… but had no nuts on it.
I suspect these guys may have been in East TN… applician mountain area… much different there than in my southern middle TN location.
I can’t add any fruits to those previously mentioned. But here is my personal experience with successful no spray fruits in my area. Serviceberry, Pawpaw, strawberry (although there is a good amount of loss due to rot and insect damage) pears (a significant loss to coddling moth but still worth growing no spray) apples (virtually all apples will suffer some insect damage in my area, but worth growing if one doesn’t mind cutting the bad parts out of each apple - disease resistant apples would be the way to go with no spray in this area) tomatoes (you have to pick off the horn worms) cantaloupes (but squash bugs can cause significant damage, depending on the year) elderberry.
I once tried to grow hardy kiwi, but found out the type I tried to grow bloomed too early for my climate. As I recall, I tried to grow A. kolomikta but I think A. arguta blooms later (someone please correct me if I’m wrong). I never fruited kolomikta but the foliage seemed to be healthy without spray. I’m guessing the fruits would have been OK without spray here. I gave up and pulled out the komomikta because they bloomed way too early.
For a very many fruits the deciding factor on no spray is heavily influenced by the amount of rainfall during the spring/summer months. Another other major factor is how many of the fruits are being grown in the local orchard, or around the local orchard.
For example, if there are lots of apple trees around ones house (either on the property, or neighbors’ properties) with a decent amount of summer rain, it’s extremely likely apples and pears will suffer major damage of coddling moth.
Likewise, as one’s own orchard grows with more and more fruits, there is much more likelihood fruits which had been successfully grown no spray will start to need sprays to be successful.
Certainly some fruits don’t ever need spray, no matter how many are grown (like Pawpaws) but other fruits like elderberry can mostly be grown without spray if the fruit plantings are relatively small. But anyone who decides to grow a half acre of elderberries in a rainy summer climate, is almost assuredly going to need to spray for SWD.
mine are planted in clay but on a slight slope and have grown great. i kept mine always mulched with woodchips with no other fertilizers. seeing they are now producing ill give them some chic manure next spring.
theres a guy that has a nursery in eastern N.C that sells hybrid hazels in the same zone as you. saw it on a facebook page im on. dont remember the nursery name. think his are crossed with European hazels. try googling it. i dont see why regular Americans wouldn’t produce where you are. id think they would do well. esp. in the under story. i bet the Turkish hazels would be great for your climate. Oikios used to sell them. try contacting him on his site. he still sells nuts so might still carry them.
There is something to be said about a monoculture, even with a no spray type of crop. If you had only a couple of each of the plants mentioned on this thread, all packed into the same lot (which is basically what I am doing) your disease pressure should be reduced.
Thank you @steveb4 for the leads on hazel… I will check that out.
@steveb4 and others… searching for a NC Nursery with hazelnuts… I found this…
Looks like a good candidate for no spray… and Steve it says zone 3 hardy (-35 degrees) or warmer. Evidently they do well in NC… and might for TN as well.
They have these too…
@azriley is this the “rootstock” you showed me at your place or was that a different plum?
So the story on that one is I’m terrible at grafting plums so I just let it grow out. Maybe it’ll have a decent fruit resembling a plum but it’s supposed to be a great rootstock. see: Mariana GF8-1 | Willamette Nurseries rootstock clonal seedling fruit tree ornamental seedlings