Pawpaws are sizing up from the warm weather
Prince caspian
Danaes Creekside
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Another couple Nikita’s dropping to the ground… but this one I cut open had a seed in it. Since it looked so juicy I couldn’t help myself and decided to give it a little nibble. Surprisingly it was juicy, a little sweet and only a little bit astringent. Not good enough to eat more of, but I guess something triggered it starting to ripen more, perhaps the seed. I haven’t seen much about seeded Nikita’s so I wonder if they lose astringency earlier if seeded?
Only 3 left on the tree so I think things are looking a bit grim for getting a real taste this year.
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Trev,
Is all your wild persimmons are southern 60 chromosomes?
Tony
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@tonyOmahaz5 … i dont know for sure but that is what I would expext since I am in southern TN.
In another year or two… should know more.
I have wild dv males all around my orchard in the woods, or edge of the woods.
If they are 60c… (and should be)… then my Prok, Barbaras Blush, H63A, Mohler, H118 (which are 90c) should be seedless… Right ?
Seedless persimmons sure sound good to me.
TNHunter
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@tonyOmahaz5
Just for reference, posting my DV rootstock from pikespeaknurseries, what I consider 90-chromosome one. I hope it will help someone with 60/90c identification.
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@ukie … this is what my wild southern TN (probably 60c) persimmons looks like.
That is one seasons growth.
This is what a 90c persimmon Prok did when grafted to my wild dv.
I gave that rootstock and graft nothing but wood chips. Foot long leaves.
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In a mist?
Does anyone have any thoughts on when the best time might be for planting out Texas persimmon grafted on virginiana rootstocks? I grafted them in March and they currently look like this in 1 gal treepots:
I figure probably fall will be good, but was considering planting out one or two now. I figure late winter or spring would also be fine, since that’s when I planted out my other ungrafted virginiana seedlings and they all did fine.
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@swincher … I have a couple mulberries… kip parker and lawson dawson… that I grafted very late spring or early summer… they have grown like crazy… near 4 ft tall now.
I have been keeping then on my back porch (great morning sun only) and they are very happy there.
July August and even early Sept here can be brutal hot and dry. The hot and dry spell this year started back in mid June and it is still going.
I am planning on planting those two out in my orchard mid Sept. It normally starts cooling off some by then… but we still have great growing weather early fall until mid Nov.
I have 3 trees that I grafted this spring… that I will be planting out this fall… as soon as we get a break from the heat.
TNHunter
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That’s a good point, I should have probably included the weather/climate here when I asked the question. Here’s the current forecast (very dry but not so hot):
So for me in my climate the question is mostly “should I wait until it starts raining again in September, or is it better to keep waiting until later in winter when the rootstock has gone dormant?” If I plant anything now, I’ll be watering deeply for a few weeks at least.
My trees always seem to grow better in the ground than in pots. If you have the ability to water them, I’d probably plant now. I have chestnut trees that I recently grafted and will be planting them in ground this week. I think they will get established better and be more prepared for winter (though perhaps not a concern for you in zone 9).
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if you mulch heavily, you should be ok to plant now.
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I’ve just planted some of my seedlings and young trees from pots at least temporarily into a freed veg bed. They willl be moving to their permanent spots in September. I figured they were better off in the ground. The air is just as hot, but the roots get more reprieve and can grow and seek cooler wetter pastures, so to speak. I can also water them better in free soil. I suppose they will loose some leaves at first due to the change, but they’ll recover quicker and will get a head start.
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@swincher … your 10 day looks nice to me. If you expect the rest of your summer and early fall to be similar… i would plant them.
My 10 day looks much better today than the past month and it finally came a good rain today. I may plant mine out a little earlier… like mid Aug.
Good Luck !!!
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A hybrid Franken-tree i grafted for my friend Allyson in NJ (about ~15m near Charlie West’s farm who some people are familiar with). Their asian persimmon died and just the American rootstock leftover was growing out, so I grafted onto it.:
Zima khurma (NB-02):
Mikkusu kaki (JT-02)
Chuchupaka
Dr Kazas Hybrid
(and Saiju and a few other lower grafts of above varieties i may remove since top ones were successful). This is one of the few double-cleft grafts I’ve done (2 scions, filling out the left and right part of the cleft), and the most successful (wasn’t as successful doing them on Medlar this year).
P.S. these were thick branches that i graft very thick scionwood to. I didn’t think they would take and suprised all of them did (as the angles weren’t perfect).
I used this tool to hammer in the cleft-cut into the thick branches:
Note to self, maybe try to add:
Kasandra, Nikita’s Gift, Rosseyanka, Bozhyj Dar, Dar Sofiyivki next year on same or different tree.
I guess there is no chance of trying to safely remove the Saiju’s on the left main branch (like surrounding it with a pot filled with dirt for a few years)? as persimmon don’t root? Looks like its splits off rightttt at the soil level and doesn’t have roots.
Also does Chuchupaka need pollination from a male American persimmon to fruit? or an asian (or hybrid?) that makes male flowers? I think there is a Szuki’s tree next to it so curious.
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