Questions not deserving of a whole thread


What growing zone are you in? I have avoided the really late ripening apples simply for that reason. Not being able to get the necessary ripening time. I am in SW Ohio, supposed to be 6a zone. We get a lot colder weather than the designated 6a zone describes. We get snow and below freezing temps at the beginning of Nov at times. Snow at mid Nov and at least by Thanksgiving. So the late ones are useless to me. No sense in wasting a tree space for something I cannot enjoy.


About the same here (5a), except frost danger is earlier. Thanks to climate change, hard freezes (below 20F) don’t typically come until November most years. I’m new to Goldrush, but I’ve been harvesting Granny Smith for about 10 years now. They tree ripen before the hard freeze in most years. They can ripen in storage if they don’t quite ripen on the tree. A couple years ago I think they went just a little to far on the tree. They were more sweet than tart.

I’ve actually been thinking about adding a Pink Lady graft to a tree… with low expectations, of course. I think it could work in some years.


I have been trying to be extra careful about finding the actual dates when apples ripen. Some nurseries are pretty good about giving date ranges, always adjusting them for where they are located vs where I am at. However, some say “early ripening”, " mid season ripening" " late season ripening". I have found very few that say " very late ripening." Those type of ripening ranges , to me, give me no idea as to when to expect them to ripen. Unless they have a chart attached with them. Then I spend time looking around to see if anyone has better ripening info. Especially if it is a non common apple such as some more rare heirloom varieties. Which I am trying to grow.


I’ve had similar results with GR, in zone 5a (although sometimes we are 4b). Tree grew just fine and it flowered and set fruit ok. But for three years in a row the apples never matured. Did not improve any in storage. I ended up pulling the tree last year (although I have another GR which may just bloom this year. I’ll see if it is any different).


I recently found this interactive chart on the website of one of this forum’s members. You give it your zipcode and it moves the ripening window to the correct dates for your location:

Pawpaw ripening order

A big “THANK YOU” for this.


Does anyone know what kind of rootstock One Green World uses for persimmons? I called and the representative said they are seedlings. What seedlings lotus, virginiana, etc, I asked. She said they could be anything “the farm” sends them.


I would prefer DV for more cold hardiness. Ask them which farm is supplying the rootstocks and ask them yourself.



This is a neat chart - but it is not accurate, at least for my area. I looked at it based off of my experience and I checked it against Saunders Brother Orchards, a large producer 1 hour north of me. The dates are a month off.


Too early or too late?


Too late. Saunders Brothers publishes a chart with the dates that there peaches will be ready on a yearly basis. There is some variation from year to year for the dates but never more than one week. I have bought peaches from Saunders Brothers so I can attest that what they publish is accurate.


I would tend to agree with SpudDaddy here. When I put in the zip of the nearest town (~8mi away) and compare what they say to when things ripen here, they are off. Early apples are too early and late ones too late compared to when they are actually ready here.

A nice idea, but needs some tuning.


A member of the forum put that together. It’s a nice effort. However, on the peaches, some are out of ripening order. I think it’s a nice general guideline, of the order, if you don’t get too specific.


Can the logic be tuned? I am assuming they did this by Zone, but not sure. I love the idea, and the interface is nice. Thanks to whoever did this.


I thought it is just me - get them completely green from the tree last fall. Does it mean I better re-graft it? How do you re-graft espaliered tree anyway :unamused:.


I’ll be more than happy to help the cause


Ditto here, count me in to donate.


Yes, the chart is flawed because it falls back on base data, which is where all ripening charts pull their information from, usually whatever location was polled for the creation of the chart. The only way for this chart to be truly more accurate is to supply it with climate data (growing degree days, chill hours, etc), cold kill data (when one tree is killed if planted in x zone) and user data collected from across the nation. GRIN has a system to collect user data but it is difficult to access and hard to understand. Climate data requires 3 separate api calls to collect and then calculate on the fly, something which I wasn’t able to do given the resources available. I have never found good data for winter kill anywhere. Even if I were to manage to put all this together, it would still not be 100% correct but it would be closer than any other chart because none of them factor in the specific viewers location.

I hope to improve it in the future but right now I’m working on something else that will become the the base layer upon which this chart is built.


Can anyone tell me how hard paw paws are to graft? I’ve reached a point where I have high success with apples and pears and plums, fair results with persimmons, and terrible results with peaches. Can someone tell me where pawpaws might fall on that curve in terms of difficulty level/usual success rates?

I have 2 paw paw trees that are about 2 feet tall. They were Susquehanna and Shenandoah and lived 2 years that way. Then for some reason both trees died from the graft up last spring but the rootstocks lived and put on a LOT of growth last year. If I can find someone to trade me some Susquehanna & Shenandoah scion wood, what are the chances that I could graft them back onto the existing rootstocks???



I find pawpaw very easy to graft. Especially since the wood is so soft , it’s easy to make good unions.
However, the varietys you mention are under trademark protection , and may not be leagaly traded without paying royaltys