@Lucky_P has done this a long time. Im going to quote him @chills and others from 14 years ago when we were on gardenweb before it sold out.
"Luckyp
14 years ago
Steve,
SFES is mine; suspected to be a polygamodioecious male, but I can never remember to stop by the tree when it’s in bloom. 80% of fruits are small - 1" seedless - 20% are average size for a native, and usually have a single seed.
Typical American persimmon flavor.
Rupp is from Harry Rupp, out of Beaumont, TX. Got mine from B.L. Childers, but it’s not fruited for me - maybe this year; I haven’t looked since bloom period. Fuzzy leaves/stems makes me wonder about its ancestry.
I got Valeene Beauty, Brace #1 & #2 from Don Compton at Marengo, IN. The IN folks I’ve talked to really like VB.
I got ‘Tatum’ from Clifford, but he told me that he didn’t think it was correct.
Raddle - something’s rattling around in the back of my mind, that it’s the same as some other known cultivar - kinda like the Yates/Juhl thing. I just can’t recall what the other, more well-known ID was/is.
Original Author
14 years ago
Hey Lucky,
Very interesting - thanks!
-As for fuzzy leaves/stems (Rupp), I wonder if that’s because its the southern sub-species, or maybe a D. virginiana x D. texana hybrid.
-So, SFES (your selection) was selected because it is a polygamodioecious male, not so much on taste one way or the other? In this case, it would be something along the lines of a Szukis or Claypool F-100, for those interested in a single tree producing both male flowers and female flowers (fruit)?
-I like the Raddle joke - sadly.
-I wonder why England’s Orchard & Nursery carries a “Morris Burton #3” instead of labeling it plainly: “Morris Burton”; your mention of a distinction between Brace #1 & #2 (they have the later) leads me to believe that “Morris Burton” and “Morris Burton #3” are two separate cultivars?
14 years ago
-So, SFES (your selection) was selected because it is a polygamodioecious male, not so much on taste one way or the other? In this case, it would be something along the lines of a Szukis or Claypool F-100?
Yes. I suspect that it’s a fruiting ‘male’, but without viewing the flowers to see if it’s producing both staminate & pistillate - or, possibly, some perfect flowers, I’m just guessing. Flavor is good; I’m not sure I can discern significant flavor differences among the ‘good’ native American persimmons I’ve ever sampled - I’ve tasted some real ‘spitters’, but most good ones are just…good.
Didn’t know if anyone would catch the Raddle/rattle thing, and I didn’t intentionally pun it in there, but noticed it right off, and left it.
Fuzzy Rupp, I’m not sure of its ancestry, and I think I’ve got some other varieties that are sort of fuzzy, too.
14 years ago
I was also looking for a hard to locate persimmon, I-94A from the Claypool breeding program. It is a Lena x Early Golden cross if I remember correctly, and has the overall highest quality rating of all the hybrids and parents in Claypool’s collection. I’m surprised I haven’t seen it offered somewhere. Maybe it was renamed? If anyone out there knows where to find this plant or can offer scion wood, I’d love to grow it.
14 years ago
Mescalito,
I can get back to you regarding I-94A if you leave an email address.
14 years ago
Those cultivars you referenced are on his scion wood list, right?
Personally, I’ve had little luck with grafting (easy stuff, I’ve not tried persimmon) and was wondering if you were aware that you were looking at the scion list. Are persimmons easy (though I thought apples were easy…lol…I’ve had a couple that looked good, but the squirrels don’t seem to want to leave well enough alone)
~Chills
14 years ago
Chills,
Persimmons are right up there with apples/pears(IMO) with regard to ease and success rate - with one caveat: Aftercare is MUCH more critical; you have to check, almost on a daily basis, to keep new shoots from the rootstock below the graft rubbed off - otherwise, they’ll very rapidly overtake the graft, it will decline, and die off. Gotta maintain that diligence for several weeks - and it doesn’t hurt to check 'em at least once a week or so for the entire first growing season.
I’ve done simple whip/splice grafts with good success, but almost exclusively do a simple bark graft(side veneer?) anymore - dormant-collected scionwood - and I prefer a 2 or 3-bud piece - on actively-growing seedling rootstock; I usually try to start grafting persimmons pretty soon after they start leafing out."